Bouncing Around the Room

This morning I woke up with the intention of rolling out of bed and being at the Jakhu temple bright and early so as to see the Himalayan panorama before the clouds gathered. So of course I rolled over at 10 am. AFter taking a shower and cursing myself, I started on the trek up the mountain. Figuring it would be a short excursion, I ate a few handfuls of peanuts and downed some water before setting off.

Knowing that the temple was at the crest of a 2500 meter hill, at some point I left the road and started climbing a well-worn path. Well, eventually the path led to an uphill outcropping of shoddy houses. On asking a man, who was carrying a large bowl/tray of vegetables on his head, I followed a much more overgrown path uphill. As I continued to crisscross uphill through the lush, wet shrubbery and trees where the hill could provide some dirt and enough flat space to grow, I started to wonder. It was obvious this was not the normal way up, and I started to worry I would end up on a different peak. Still, I had seen few other ways of reaching the top, so this had to be right.

Finally I saw a red flag over the crest of green. Then a red roof, and then the concrete walls of a building. And then the road. If I had justed stayed on it, I would have had a quick, leisurely stroll to the top like everyone else. But I like the way I came. It was reclusive, exhilarating, and made the sights to come well-earned.

AFter removing my shoes, I started to explore the compound. First off, its covered in monkeys everywhere. Monkeys sleeping, nursing their babies, and monkeys peskering visitors for dried cickpeas. The temple itself is said to hold the footprints of Hanuman, commander in cheif of the monkey army that helped RAma is his struggle against the demon Ravana, all entailed in the Ramayana. And so naturally it should be a respite and hotbed for these baller animals.

Well anyway, I was stooped down taking a photo of a statue, when all of a sudden I find myself bellowing, offbalanced, and mysteriously seeing the world distincly fuzzier. A monkey ran up and stole the glasses right off my face! When I was warned that they were a pest, I guess I didn't really understand. Anyway, after consultinga guard and with his help, I bought some chickpeas, and looked for the monkey, a needle in a haystack, especially with everything looking like I was wearing those drunk goggles from health class in high school. Well I found him, perched in a tree. With some coaxing and alot of help from my uniformed friend I got my specs back; It was clear he had done this before (the monkey and the guard).

The temple itself is a whole 'nother experience, upon climbing stairs and ringing an overhead bell, you enter a colorful carpeted room full of Hanuman images, and an ornate shrine in the middle. Two holy men are sitting in front, one ferrying offerings into the sanctuary, which is adorned with multiple statues, gold and brass bowls, flower struings, among the burning oil lamps. The other was conducting ritual blessings upon visitors. AFter going through the motions, I wanted to leave quickly to not lose anything else to the monkeys. Well after talking to a few people ( a man who had been planning to visit the temple for 40 years, and some Indian boy scouts) I scurried down the mountain being famished. And somehow I came down the mountain the wrong direction. Smooth.

So finally I sit in a cafe, munching on a veggie burger and sprite, in bliss. When I'm starving, indian food just doesn't cut it. And to make me fel more at home, a phish tape just came on. I guess I am doing something right. So I am going to find a bus ticket to Minali and split tonight.

The region I will be traveling through tonight -- the Kullu valley, is surrounded by impressive valleys on each side, and served as one of the only trade routs between central asia and the northern plains of india, and has been invaded by most major rulers from the north and south, for owning the Rohtang pass (3987 m) means significant trade between china and india and the right to tax it. Today the economy revolves around apple and cannabis production, most of which is done by tibetan refugees in the area. The locals wear topis, the square wool hats of old. And the tibetans (most having arrived from exile in the 50s and 60s) spend their meager income from tenant farming on expensive sliver and turquoise jewelry, fancy headscarves, and other adorning items, which somehow I learned is part of a rare continuation of tibetan buddhism and its practices.

thats all for now, stories to come.